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You will have to disable the modelling light on your controller. If you turn the modelling light off on the flash, you'll find that the controller's setting will override it. Hope that helps!

The spring is a little tight at first. We think this is done on purpose since any spring will weaken over time.

@@Strobepro - :) I had to take a pair of scissors to work the spring a bit before I could even get the umbrella to go in. But not complaining now that I understand what is going on.

Glad you found the video helpful! Feel free to reach out to us if you ever have questions.

Strobes are typically daylight balanced, and there is no way to change a strobe's colour temperature aside from using gels. Strobes do have a small amount of colour variance throughout the power range. For example, your AD600 Pro has a colour temperature of 5600 +/- 200K. The variance is reduced to +/-75K in its colour stability mode. Auto white balance (AWB) can produce mixed results with strobes. For colour neutral results, fix your camera's white balance to 5600K, or take a custom reading from a neutral grey or white.

The "APP" mode has been replaced with the "L-858" mode, which was a feature missing from the X3-S at launch when we made this video. The "L858" mode as well as a "legacy hotshoe" mode has now been added via a firmware update. The function was once called "APP" mode because it was necessary for integrating with the Godox A-1: a companion device for Godox's original smartphone app. The A-1 was discontinued once Godox added Bluetooth integration to the X2T. The "APP" function is now called "L-858" because of its more contemporary use with the Godox radio module for the Sekonic L-858D light meter. Anyway, that was probably more than you ever wanted to know. Godox's naming of these functions is kind of confusing without some context, so I thought I would explain it. tl;dr: Both "APP" or "L-858" where they appear will cause your controller to act like as a simple trigger that does not update power settings on your flashes. If you are missing the L-858 function on your X3, you'll just need to download the latest firmware.

@@Strobepro Thank you for the clarification. I saw the comment on app mode in another review, probably an old one. I do own L-858, so this is important to me. I need get the firmware updated and see how that goes. Appreciate your time!!

That is really great. I was waiting for this.

Hi Edward, If you are have the Godox module for your Sekonic L-858, you can follow the instructions in Sekonic's video here: ruclips.net/video/k6McgivGK7E/видео.htmlsi=aDairTMg10Tpc6CN The one notable difference with the X3 (compared to the XPro controller that is shown) is that you won't see "APP" setting in the "SHOOT" menu. Instead, there is a dedicated "L-858" setting. However, this feature was not available at launch for the Canon, Nikon, and Sony models, and it was just added to those models in a very recent firmware update. So if you don't see the setting available, you'll have to download the latest firmware package from Godox's website. Hope that helps!

The culprit here is probably auto white balance. AWB can give different results depending on the camera/controller combination. Sometimes, it has to to do with how the controller is reverse engineered to work with specific flash systems. If you are noticing a difference from one controller to another, that would be kind of strange unless one controller wasn't fully compatible (for example, a canon compatible controller on a Nikon camera body). The single pin or "legacy hotshoe" modes present in some of these controllers is another thing that might cause the camera to select a different white balance. Another possibility is that you have inadvertently switched into high speed sync (HSS). We've noticed that HSS flashes tend to cause the camera to select a cooler white balance when AWB is left enabled, resulting in images that are rendered warmer. In any case, the solution is to set a manual white balance for your flash either in camera or in post. If you compare the files where you are seeing the difference, you should see that two different white balances were selected.

Strobes do not have variable colour temperatures. A strobe can have a bit of colour tempurature variation between high powers and low powers, but it will always be close to daylight. Colour correction gels are one option, though they can be clumsy to use with certain modifiers.

Yes, you can! Godox's current speedlites and strobes are all on the same radio system.

AA batteries of different types offer variable capacity and performance, so AA battery indicators aren't particularly accurate. There is no indicator on these flashes, but the performance of the flash will tell you when it is time to switch batteries. You will notice your recycle times getting longer as the batteries drain.

Hi Aaron, There are too many strobes to show in one video, but I believe we have a video for every flash in Godox's current lineup as well if you want to see pairing instructions for your specific model. Here are a few troubleshooting suggestions: 1. Ensure that the flash also has no ID enabled. 2. Ensure that you are in the correct receiver mode, with radio enabled. Some of Godox's speedlites have optical communication options that will still display a channel and group. 3. Make sure the flash group is active on the controller-ie., if the flash is set to group B, ensure that group B has a power setting selected on the controller. Two dashed lines indicates that the group is disabled. 4. If activating your camera's shutter does not trigger your flash, try hitting the test button on the controller to see if it's a communication issue or a camera issue. Things like silent mode or an electronic shutter can disable your flashes. You can also feel free to give us a call if you need further assistance!

The Fuji version of this controller does not have the sync options. First/second curtain and HSS are managed inside the camera only. If you have "FP" enabled, in your flash function menu, you should see the HSS symbol active on the top right of the controller's display. If you exceed your flash sync speed, your flashes will automatically switch to HSS. If you are below your flash sync speed, your flashes will fire in 1st curtain sync.

@@Strobepro Thank you for your response. The problem is that I'm currently using the trigger on a Nikon D3s camera in manual mode and I have all the functions except for TTL, which I've never used, and I also use the V1f, which normally works together with the trigger on Nikon as well.

@@igormarkovic9573 Unfortunately, HSS requires full hotshoe communication from these controllers as well. You would have to go to one of Godox's Nikon models.

im experiencing the same issue

I figured it out; on the godox flash, go to the menu, scroll down to zoom, and change from 4/3 to 135.

You are correct. These lights are also known as the Godox FL150S and FL150R. That is what is reflected in our current stock, which is why we changed the title of the video. We once rebranded Godox equipment much like Adorama still does with its Flashpoint line. It was one way we tracked customer warranties, but that became less necessary once Godox started serializing its products.

Hey, sorry for the late reply! One thing you'll want to ensure when using the MF12 flashes is that your controller's distance mode is set to 0-30m. At its default range (1-100m), you could be getting misfires from one or more of your flashes on the macro ring. Multi mode is not supported on the MF-12 flashes, unfortunately. Godox's other speedlites like the TT685ii, V860iii, V1, and V1Pro do support multi mode.